A Focus on 'Vineyard Presence'

The name "Dover Canyon" comes from a steep east-west canyon that slashes directly through the heart of northwest Paso Robles, bringing us a wind tunnel effect of cool Pacific air every afternoon. Our vineyard and wine barn are on a hilltop vectored between the Templeton Gap and Dover Canyon wind tunnels.

Summer breezes are so brisk they will slide a full glass of wine right off the patio tables. While Paso Robles has been traditionally thought of as excessively hot and dry, the western hills lead into the Santa Lucia foothills and enjoy cool breezes, strong diurnal temperature swings, 22 inches of rainfall a year, and steep hillsides with varying soil patterns.

In addition to our own zinfandel and syrah vineyard, winemaker and owner Dan Panico buys fruit produced in the northwest corner of the appellation, from the Templeton Gap microclimate to the Adelaida Hills district.

Paso Robles is geographically the third largest appellation in California, so there is considerable geological and meteorological variation in the appellation, and a number of very distinct microclimates. Dan prefers the northwest corner of the appellation due to its pre-calcareous soils, steep slopes, and east-west wind patterns.

Dan prefers dry-farmed or stress-irrigated fruit, and the heavier rainfall of northwest Paso supports vineyards with rootstocks and clones chosen for dry farming.

Dan also focuses on Zinfandel and Rhône-style wines. He produces several individualistic Zin releases each year, from spicy old vine Zin to powerful, smoky nouveau styles.

Dan's wines are robust, with distinctive smoke and licorice flavors, and gentle perfumes of oak that do not overwhelm the fruit. His focus is on vineyard presence—plenty of fruit, a sense of terroir and vintage, and a crisp acidity that offers longevity of fruit.

Our vineyard

In the zinfandel vineyard, which is dryfarmed and headtrained, we have three acres of small berry clone zinfandel on St. George rootstock planted on the back slope, which is warm and very, very rocky. The soils are Linne Calodo and Santa Lucia, with clay loam on the bottom slope, and pre-calcareous soil and limestone bedrock near the hillslope summit. An average annual rainfall of 22" a year is retained by the underlying clay and provides deep moisture throughout the growing season.

We also have two acres of Shiraz Clone 1 on 1103 rootstock, on bilateral trellising right behind the winery.

Why only seven acres, you ask? Dan and I like to do the work ourselves, and we knew this was as much as two people could realistically handle and still have fun.

An annual cover crop blend of rye, barley, clover, and mustard is mown several times during the spring. We leave the mowings on the ground as mulch and green manure to improve the tilth, biodiversity, and moisture-retaining properties of the soil. The cover crop is then tilled under in the summer after it has gone to seed, and the ground is neatly ring-rolled. Bare summer earth prevents moisture competition while the grapes are developing, and keeps the vines warmer. A lack of summer vegetation also discourages gophers. The cover crop begins growing again during the fall rains—the new growth prevents erosion, and by spring provides ready habitat and nectar for predator insects, when many insect pests are at their most prolific.

During spring rains, we fertigate with a dilute solution of fish emulsion and kelp to naturally replace nutrients lost through soil leaching and drying, and to promote healthy nematode populations and vermiculture. We do it while the weather is still wet, so the emulsion will sink deeply into the soil with minimum use of irrigation.

Sustainable viticulture

A healthy vineyard environment is resistant to pests and disease, which protects the longevity of the vineyard, and results in the production of quality fruit, year after year.

Sustainable agriculture is like exercising— it may seem like a lot of work, but the dividends in terms of health, longevity and balance are great.

It also complements Dan's winemaking style—meticulous, aware, and passionate. Dan is always aware of each wine's development and potential. That practice extends to the vineyard as well. Dan chose to purchase a small ten-acre parcel over other, larger properties for two reasons—its location, and his desire to manage the vineyard himself, so he can personally oversee quality production from soil to bottle.