Some Mind-Blowing Cheeses
Alex asked if we would like to try some. "Sure!" we exclaimed. First, Alex pulled out a small marble cheeseboard. A leather portfolio unsnapped to reveal folds of lilac felt protecting antique Japanese solid stainless cheese knives. Then Alex reached into a small cooler and started pulling out cheeses. The first cheese was a Mont Chevre four-pepper fresh goat cheese, served with the 2004 Viognier. Smooth and creamy with a slight tang and a little zip from the peppers, the cheese was subtle and refreshingly tart. Second up, a Virgin Pine Native Blue cave-aged blue cheese by Carr Valley, served with Dover Canyon 2001 Menage, a Bordeaux-style blend. This non-inoculated blue is pierced with wires and allowed to ferment on native cave yeasts. It lacks the distinctive blue veining of inoculated cheeses and is incredibly creamy, with a softly stinky nose. Alex refers to this as a "stealth" cheese because it doesn't look like a bleu. "It’s frequently served at Guy Savoy," he added. "They are my largest customer for this cheese." 
On Sunday, during a lull between waves of customers, Tyler pulled me over and introduced me to a young man named Alex Mielke. "He’s a cheese expert," Tyler explained. "He knows over 700 cheeses."
The third selection was a Blue Mont young organic Swiss—a very tiny production, which we had with the last bottle of 2003 Alto Pomar, a grenache-based Rhone blend. Fourth, another Blue Mont, but this time an aged Emmenthal. This sample came from a 95 pound wheel produced by the cheesemaker’s father. It was the last wheel he produced. Alex says the Blue Mont productions are "absolutely not available" in distribution. "I had to chase the guy down at his farm and follow him around, begging him to let me have some cheese." We thought the samples were over when Alex wrapped up these four and tucked them back in his bag. But then he pulled out another cheese—Hook’s Blue, which we sampled with the 2003 Zinfandel Port. Again, an incredibly creamy blue with a seductive aroma and mouthfeel. "I want to rub my body in this," said Lawand, at right. Obviously that comment sent Alex’s thoughts spiraling in a decadent direction—he began to describe a chocolate cheese that he carries, Fromage a Trois, covered in candy-coated pecans and bourbon sauce. "I get this cheese from an Indiana lady who names every one of her 400 goats and reads them stories everyday." What stories, we asked? "Um, I’m not sure. Three Little Billy Goats Gruff?" he laughed. Finally, with a twinkle in his eye, Alex pulled out another cheese and began to slowly unwrap it. "I always save this for last," he said. "This is the most unusual cheese you will probably ever taste." And indeed, we all agreed that it was mind-blowing. The Carr Valley cave-aged goat milk cheese was a combination of bleu aroma and crystallized texture, similar to a Manchego. It was creamy, crunchy, old and new, stinky, delicious, sweet and tangy. The rind was a beautiful brown-gray, natural bandaged rind. Alex gave each of us a crumb to taste. "Since you’re in the fermentation business," he explained, "I think you’ll appreciate this." And indeed, the crumbly rind tasted of soft, earthy yeasts—a mysterious womb-like flavor. "This cheese will take your palate away for a week if you let it get too old," said Alex. "This is perfect. This is how it should taste." How long would it keep and how should we store it? "Cheese is alive," said Alex. "This cheese will keep well for about 2-3 weeks. Open your cheese when you get it, and rewrap it in aluminum foil or cheesecloth. Wax paper and foil would be okay, too. Not plastic wrap. You need a wrap that’s not completely airtight, so the cheese can continue to breathe." Alex’s website, www.prmielkecheese.com, is still under construction, but Alex promises that it will be finished soon. At the moment, Alex distributes his selections to the Las Vegas casino community, but is exploring Paso Robles with an eye to expanding and possibly relocating. Alex can be contacted at thelvcheeseman@yahoo.com.
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