In Harmony with the Land

Contributed by Katy Budge, freelance writer

During her presentation at the recent Hospice du Rhone event held in Paso Robles, California, Sophie Armenier of Domaine de Marcoux in Châteauneuf-du-Pape showed a striking close-up photograph of two hands, side-by-side, each holding a handful of dirt. One hand held a soil so fecund you could smell its earthiness; the other hand held a soil that could best be described as beige. Armenier did not elaborate on the image, but luckily, moderator Kelly McAuliffe pressed her on exactly what we were seeing.

Because it wasn’t part of the formal presentation she had prepared in her very able English, Armenier offered the information in French for McAuliffe to translate. My French was good enough for me to realize that these soils were from two different nearby vineyards, but I missed the kicker. The dark soil was from Domaine de Marcoux’ organically and biodynamically farmed vineyard, the other was from only five yards away.

Cover crops, in photo at right, at Wild Horse Vineyards in Templeton, California.